FANTASÍAS JAPONESAS

· EN LA ISLA DEL TRABAJO ·

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Las prisas, el metro abarrotado, las luces de un futuro digital ya incrustado en el presente, jovenzuelas con gadgets esperpénticos y el borracho trajeado que deambula gritando sin sentidos después de 15 días seguidos trabajando.

Y a la vuelta, muchos preguntan: ¿cómo es Japón?

Japón es puro contraste. Tan tradicionales en algunas cosas y tan modernos en otras, como si el mismísimo emperador hubiera dictado qué sí, qué no y de qué manera. Por ello, una de las cosas que más me llamó la atención fue la relación de los nipones con la fantasía.

Es una especie de un quiero pero no debo, como si vivieran con un constante freno que pusiera límites casi infranqueables a sus impulsos. En varias ocasiones me pregunté por qué proliferaban sitios como los cuddle cafes, lugares en los que se paga por dormir abrazado junto a alguien sin sexo de por medio; o los pachinkos, unos casinos demenciales con música a todo volumen en los que 24/7 ludópatas se dejan el salario en máquinas tragaperras; y ah, sin olvidarnos de la idolatría nacional hacia el manga, el anime e incluso el hentai.

Todo esto y alguna que otra experiencia personal durante el viaje me llevaron a pensar que es posible que el sistema en sí mismo haya creado una carencia en la naturalidad de las relaciones entre las personas, la cual se ha procurado suplir con otro tipo de «remedios», alimentando la imaginación y la fantasía hasta el extremo sin, normalmente, materialización concreta, con la tecnología, por supuesto, haciendo el resto.

En Osaka visité de noche el barrio rojo de Tobita Shinchi.

Aunque no se recomienda la visita -ya que se dice que la yakuza sigue controlando la zona- no podía irme sin salir un poco del halo de seguridad que se respira en casi todo el país. A pie de calle trabajan chicas con las caras más angelicales que hayas visto nunca. Te sonríen tímidamente, con una aparente inocencia y elegancia que jamás imaginarías.

De cada «casita» emanan dulces olores y las escaleras rojas que suben hacia arriba parecen marcar el camino del deseo. Es increíble cómo el concepto de prostitución está maquillado aquí hasta el punto de no parecerlo.

barrio yakuza tobita shinchi osaka

Pero no fui a Japón solo para saltar en shinkansen (tren bala) de ciudad a ciudad. El verdadero destino de mi tiempo allí sería una peregrinación por el antiquísimo Kumano Kodo, una ruta milenaria en el sur de la península de Kansai, considerada la única, junto al Camino de Santiago, Patrimonio de la Humanidad. A diferencia de este, prácticamente no hay nadie excepto cuando florece el cerezo y, sin duda alguna, ha sido lo mejor que he hecho en todos mis viajes hasta la fecha.

De alguna manera, la montaña te hace sabio.

A diario, nuestra mente recorre un hilo de pensamientos que tenemos que cumplir. Sin embargo, cuando caminas y caminas durante horas sucede algo mágico: comienzas a conectar más contigo mismo y con tu entorno. Quien lea esto y lo sienta así sabe de lo que hablo: te planteas tu vida de cabo a rabo, tu papel en el mundo, tu estado emocional, tus triunfos y fracasos, amores y desamores… sabiduría pura. Y aunque el camino me deparase la aventura de perderme el último día y acabar embarrado, con heridas de caerme una y otra vez en medio de la nada, casi de noche y lloviendo… mereció mucho la pena.La verdad es que me fascinaba observar a los japoneses: a veces en el tren, otras parado en un banco de la calle, casi siempre tras mis gafas de sol en pleno diciembre. Sus comportamientos, sus formas, sus expresiones, devorando con ahínco sus bento-box en cualquier sitio.

Siempre he creído firmemente que introducirte en aquello que te es completamente distinto enriquece sobremanera. A través de CouchSurfing tuve dos grandes experiencias con gente local: Kazuko, una madre de familia, y Sumaru, un joven artista carpintero, loco y libre. Entre ambos me ayudaron a atisbar un poco de qué iba el asunto allí. Pero sigo sin tener ni puta idea.

Estuve en Japón veinte días en las Navidades de 2013-2014 y me faltaron muchos más para comenzar a entender los intríngulis de su sociedad. Hay algo mágico en islas como esta, en cuya historia se han mantenido más vírgenes y aislados que el resto. Me gustó e impresionó tanto Japón que quizás por eso comencé a tomarme la fotografía más en serio.

En cambio, otras cosas, como tener ínfulas de kodomano me las tomé tan a pecho.

 

 

4 septiembre, 2017

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