FAVELAS DE BRASIL

· REALIDADES DE BRASIL ·

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«No te preocupes, conmigo estás a salvo», dijo Joselito con ademán despreocupado mientras conducía el cochecito entre una calle llena de casas de ladrillo visto sin pintar. Nos adentrábamos en Alagados y sus alrededores, donde se encuentran algunas de las favelas más conflictivas de Salvador de Bahía, donde años atrás los lugareños vivían en «parafitas», unas construcciones de madera sobre el agua. Hoy, están todas destruidas.

Como si se tratara de un guión dramatúrgico, fueron sucediéndose ante mis ojos escenas de la vida representada: jóvenes montando a pelo en caballos robados, una peluquería improvisada en la acera de una esquina, un hombre que amenazaba a una persona escondida tras la ventana y, caminando con mirada enjuta y puño prieto, una chica embarazada de muchos meses y pocos años.

Mientras el trajín de la vida favelera abducía todos mis sentidos, fuimos dando vueltas por lo que a mi parecer era una ciudad entera hasta que unos sujetos me gritaron por verme con la cámara apuntando hacia ellos. «¡Tudo bom, irmão! O gringo está comigo». Inmediatamente, el fuego de sus ojos desaparecía al reconocer a Joselito, negro rastafari y líder de un importante proyecto de la comunidad que trabaja con niños de la calle desde hace 20 años. Joselito era mi salvoconducto; sin él, yo no era bienvenido.

Fuimos a comer una moqueca, un típico plato afro-brasilero y Alicia, la cubana que conocí en el avión Madrid-Salvador y que me habló del Proyecto Bagunçaço de Joselito, me propuso entrar hasta la cocina a grabar el proceso. Lo hice, pero lo que de verdad pedía a gritos ser documentado era el desfile de historias y personajes que ante nosotros marchaba: coches tuneados despidiendo forró a todo volumen, chavales de ida y vuelta en bicicletas a una rueda, negros en moto descalzos y sin camiseta, un señor en camisa empujando una carretilla con mucha honra y muchachos que se acercaban a Joselito por detrás para saludarle y abrazarle. Realmente le querían. «A este me lo llevé a Suiza el año pasado a tocar música, es un fenómeno con la percusión de lata y plástico».

Eran tantos los estímulos que repiqueteaban mis adentros que apenas podía concentrarme en degustar el plato enfrente mía. Mientras comía, Joselito contaba historias de su infancia, de cómo la educación fue su vía de escape, de cómo pudo elegir entre el mundo criminal y el mundo solidario y de cómo la mayoría que nace en favela está inexorablemente condenado a seguir toda su vida en ella.

«Oye Joselito, he dejado la cámara en el coche, ¿es peligroso?» «Para nada, aquí la gente no se roba entre sí; van a otros barrios a hacerlo. Yo ayudo a la comunidad, no me pueden tocar. Si alguien me roba, esa persona sabe que está firmando su sentencia de muerte porque atraerá a la policía y los dueños del narcotráfico es lo último que quieren. Son códigos«.

Pues sí, parece que lo que sale en las películas era de verdad. Sin embargo, lo que más me llamaba la atención era la complicidad con la que se relacionaban: detectaba una especie de camaradería entre todos extremadamente desarrollada y, sobre todo, mucha, mucha autenticidad, como si pasar más tiempo en la calle, alejados de la tecnología y la influencia externa, les confiriera un estado de naturaleza más puro. «Aquí lo que más hay es solidaridad; si no nos ayudamos unos a los otros, no hay quien sobreviva. ¿Cómo no te vas a ayudar? Te garantizo que tu vecino sabe hasta los condimentos que utilizas».

Terminamos la comida y en el camino a la escuela, Joselito apuntó con el dedo a la cara de un pícaro jovenzuelo espetándole un «Ya hablaremos tú y yo», por haber sido visto consumiendo marihuana. Continuamos y con el codo apoyado sobre el marco de la ventanilla, también echó una suave reprimenda a un chico al que cazaron robando caña de azúcar de la plantación de la escuela, primero, y a tres niñas que estuvieron armando barullo el día anterior, después. Esas niñas estaban en la misma puerta del proyecto y, mientras Joselito y Alicia charlaban de política, yo me quedé con ellas haciendo fotos y enseñándoles a disparar. La cámara. Quizás lo otro ya sabían.

«Esto es un refugio, un lugar abierto para todos los niños a los que ofrecemos clases de capoeira, música, arte… Yo les cuento historias de cómo enanos vencen a gigantes, de cómo la magia y el poder están dentro de uno, de cómo estudiar y educarse es la única vía segura de escape y de cómo la línea que separa la luz de la oscuridad es tan fina que pudieran a veces parecer la misma cosa».

En el patio de detrás de la escuela, además de columpios, encuentro niños explorando una furgoneta calcinada. Varios de ellos blanden peonzas como juguete principal y las lanzan delante mía para impresionarme. Joselito se acerca y dice «Marquinhos, muéstrale a Agustín lo que tienes». Con gesto de no querer realmente hacerlo, tal vez por el dolor que le produce recordarlo, el chico de 12 años muestra una cicatriz de bala en el antebrazo. «Y tú, Thomaz, enséñale también». Otro, esta vez de 7 años, deja ver su herida por arma de fuego en el costado.

Mientras grababa todo con mi cámara, procuraba mantener la serenidad y dejar para luego el proceso de integrar y procesar lo que estaba viviendo: si de siete niños que aleatoriamente aparecieron en ese momento, dos tenían heridas de bala… ¿Cuál era el ratio? «¿A cuántos he visto morir que yo conociera o supiera quiénes eran? Alrededor de 500. Si esto no es una guerra, dime tú qué es».

Tras charlar un rato sobre sus amigos fallecidos, le pregunté a Joselito: «Pero, ¿por qué se meten en el juego del narcotráfico si saben cuál puede ser el precio?» A lo que respondía «Porque piensan que es lo único que les puede dar algo de sentido a su vida, lo único que les permite salir con una chica uno o dos años mayor que ellos, invitarla a cenar, comprarse algún capricho y salir a tomar una cerveza».

Estupefacto, salgo a la calle a respirar un rato. Veo perros desorientados y pulgosos peleando entre sí y pienso: «¡Hasta los perros están locos!» Pero, ¿cómo no van a enloquecer? Si esto es la locura materializada. ¿Cómo un pueblo como el brasileño, que siempre me ha ayudado en todo lo que he necesitado, puede simultáneamente vivir una situación de violencia tan extrema?

«¿Que si existe racismo en Brasil? ¿Racismo, dices? ¡Já! ¡Yo soy el vivo ejemplo del racismo! ¡Mírame! ¿No ves el sitio donde crecí? ¿Y te parece casualidad el color de piel de casi todos los que viven aquí? ¿Por qué crees que existe esto? Brasil es un país que se fundó, creció y desarrolló siendo racista. Se abolió la esclavitud, pero el racismo no hay quien lo quite, y aquí todo el mundo lo sabe«.

Encendido y acalorado por tocar lo que él considera el origen principal de todos los problemas, invito a Alicia a que le formule la última pregunta. «¿Cómo crees que afectará a vuestra comunidad que gane el ultraderechista Bolsonaro?» A lo que contestó «Aquí poco va a cambiar; violencia y pobreza ya tenemos. Lo que deberían preguntarse sus votantes es si están dispuestos que nuestra violencia se extienda aún más hasta sus casas».

Al mismo tiempo que la noche se echaba encima, todo tipo de pensamientos también se cernían sobre mí: «¿Cómo todo esto es posible? ¿Cómo tengo tanta suerte? ¿Cómo puedo tener las agallas de concebir mi ruptura sentimental como un problema tras ver todo esto? ¡Estos sí que son problemas de verdad!» Y sin embargo, puedo asegurar que sonrisas en sus caras no faltaban.

A lo largo de mis viajes he visitado muchos lugares de pobreza extrema, pero solo uno me impresionó tanto como las favelas que vieron crecer a Joselito: Kibera, un barrio de chabolas de más de un millón de personas en medio de Nairobi. Allí escribí este poema: «Kibera» (click aquí para leer») y tengo la impresión de que lo que en él describo puede ser aplicado a demasiados lugares del mundo, ya que siempre que viajo observo el mismo patrón que se repite.

Y aquí, desde el condominio de la abuela de mi amigo Gabriel en el acomodado barrio de Pituba, me pregunto cuál es el misterio que teje nuestro destino, por qué existen realidades tan opuestas y si es justo que así lo sigan siendo. Una maraña de dudas y una sombra de culpa se asoman por mi conciencia y, mientras me cuestiono la naturaleza de las cosas, solo rezo para que existan muchos Joselitos que sigan llevando luz a todos los Alegados, a todas las Kiberas del planeta.

24 octubre, 2018
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    Una lástima que empeze a acompañar tu canal despúes que ya havia pasado por Curitiba mi ciudad, seria un placer conocerlo.
    Que sigás bien y Buenos camiños.
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