LA RUTA DEL MAR

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–Como en Chile te van a robar… toma, te regalo esta SIM internacional, para compensar –me dijo la chica sentada a mi lado en el avión. Hay una especie de temor incrustado en los latinoamericanos de que en cualquier momento en cualquier lugar te robarán. Lo tienen tan adentro que a la mínima ocasión te meten un miedo insano en el cuerpo por tu propio bien pero que ensucia la forma de mirar y provoca una desconfianza casi permanente, así que me decanto por pensar que la gente es buena e ir más relajado sin caer en la imprudencia. Dicho esto, la muchacha me recomendó encarecidamente ir a Pichilemu y Punta de Lobos, una de las mecas del surf y la idea de pasar la Nochebuena y Fin de Año entre olas me sedujo inmediatamente. Escribí por Facebook a Conviento de Lobos, un logde de ensueño que mezcla yoga, eco-surf y buena vibra, ofreciéndoles material audiovisual a cambio de hospedaje. Y fue una de las mejores decisiones que tomé hasta ahora.

Los dueños andaban de vacaciones y habían dejado todo a cargo de Chris y Ariel, una pareja londinense que me produjo una profunda impresión. Fue una de esas veces que miras a alguien a los ojos y sabes de inmediato que vais a ser amigos, amigos de verdad. Con apenas 20 primaveras ella y 24 él, estaban casados y rezumaban una madurez muy superior a la media atontada que suele abundar a esa edad. Ariel escogió educarse en la universidad de la vida, por lo que llevaba viajando desde los 17 por el mundo, hasta que conoció a Chris y decidieron hacerlo juntos. Me fascinó lo claro que tenían que la mayor felicidad se la brindaba el hecho de compartir sus horas pegaditos, viajar en bici y, algún día, cumplir el sueño de cultivar una huerta y vender mermelada y productos a los visitantes. Nada más.

Me encanta conocer personas que se salen por la tangente, lejos de aspiraciones profesionales, materiales y sistemáticas (que se nos enseña que debemos tener y que, personalmente, me costó quitarme de encima) y más cerca de aspiraciones humanas, de expansión de alma, corazón y espíritu. En mi opinión, no hay nada de malo en dedicar horas y horas a tu trabajo si realmente es lo que amas. La cuestión es por qué haces lo que haces: si es tan solo por el fin de amasar dinero o si el propio desarrollo de la actividad conlleva realización propia e implica evolución en ti y los demás.

Durante los últimos tres años me dediqué a juntar eurillos para tener una base sólida para iniciar el proyecto Soy Tribu. Diría incluso que tuve una relación insana con el dinero, llegando a obsesionarme para sobrevivir estos cuatro años en el peor de los escenarios. Y ahora, reflexionando sobre ello, creo que no lo hacía para tener algo que llevarme a la boca sino por ganar la partida. Sospecho que concebía el sistema como un juego, como un campeonato en el que el que ganaba más pasta en menos tiempo era el vencedor, el más listo y el más avispado. Académicamente, no destaqué ni en la carrera ni en el máster, tal vez porque la vida del colegio mayor me parecía más interesante o por exprimir hasta el extremo las actividades culturales que me ofrecía Madrid pero, cuando llegó el salto al mundo laboral, de alguna manera me propuse echarle un pulso al sistema y demostrarme que ahora, en la partida de verdad, yo sería el ganador. Sin embargo, me acabó aburriendo. Y es que en la vida hay muchas partidas, la cuestión es cuál quieres jugar.

Con lágrimas en los ojos, nos despedimos y continué rumbo al sur por la Ruta del Mar con la sensación de dejar atrás un regalo a medio abrir. El camino era serpenteante y, sin esperármelo, el navegador me metió por pistas así que me quité las rarezas a base de subidas y bajadas de ripio. Conduje por pequeños pueblecitos costeros rebosantes de turistas nacionales que aprovechaban el verano navideño para remojarse la pelleja en las gélidas aguas del Pacífico. En los pequeños atascos que se formaban, la gente me miraba con cara divertida al descubrir el muñeco de Mortadelo que llevo atado a un bidón de gasolina y el peluche que me dieron en Movilnorte, en el otro. A día de hoy puedo asegurar que producen un efecto inmediato de simpatía y me hacen las aduanas más ligeritas, como si alguien que lleva muñecos fuera imposible que también portara fardos de cocaína.

De tanto ir con el mar a la derecha, me preguntaba cómo habría sido mi vida si me hubiera criado con él día a día. En mi pueblo tenemos un pantano con algunas truchas pero surfear, surfear… no se puede. Entonces reflexiono sobre mis constantes cambios de ánimo. Paso del éxtasis contagioso al semblante serio en cuestión de minutos. ¿Cómo puede ser esto? ¿Seré bipolar? Decido no darle importancia y pensar que se debe a las circunstancias, al proceso de desapego y búsqueda del nosémuybienqué. Continúo el camino y un par de coches hacen adelantamientos ilegales y casi imposibles, quedando dos autos y yo alineados en la calzada al mismo tiempo. Les maldigo y al rato casi me como uno que no tenía luces de atrás y frenó súbitamente en una bajada. Por otro lado, descubro que las «pistas lentas» de subida en montaña se acaban sin flecha ni previo aviso. Sustito tras sustito, llegué a Puyehue, localidad que se encontraba celebrando con júbilo la temporada estival.

–¿Cuánto vale este joyita? –me preguntó un paisano dando vueltas alrededor de Supernova con mirada inquisitiva.

–No tiene precio, amigo –contesté condescendientemente, y aceleré con dureza en señal de déjame en paz.

Me coloqué detrás de una furgoneta que llevaba una familia en la parte de atrás, quedando justo en frente mía. Con una mezcla de indiferencia y hastío en los ojos, me pareció que me miraban con cara de «sácanos de aquí, no somos felices»A lo mejor simplemente era yo el que estaba cansado y triste y veía todo con un halo de negatividad, así que les adelanté para quitarme cuanto antes esa escena. Llegué hasta Buchupureo, acampé y al día siguiente me dirigí a Concepción, la segunda ciudad más grande de Chile.

El motivo que me llevó a esta urbe no eran sus atractivos polígonos industriales sino un problemita que me estaba dando la moto desde que la compré: se me apagaba estando en marcha con una frecuencia casi bochornosa. En Madrid no lograron encontrarle la falla, así que fui al concesionario oficial de BMW en Concepción con la esperanza de que lo solucionaran. Les conté que había días que se me apagaba siete veces o más y otros que ninguna. La exploraron de arriba abajo y me dijeron que todo parecía en orden y que quizás el sensor de la pata de cabra era lo que provocaba el cortocircuito, así que lo desconectaron y nos encomendamos a San Expedito, patrón de lo imposible, para que no fuera un cable pelado haciendo masa en cualquier parte. Sin embargo, cuando ya me la iban a entregar, vino el gerente con cara muy seria y dijo:

–Agustín, ha habido un problema grave con tu motocicleta.

–Oh Dios mío, otra vez no –respondí pensando que el tormento de las reparaciones era cosa del pasado.

–Ven, tienes que verlo tú mismo –aseveró con gesto preocupado.

El mecánico me mostró un perno, o lo que es lo mismo, un tornillo gordo partido a la mitad. Me aseguraron que cuando estaban bajando la moto del elevador cayó de la nada el perno de la suspensión trasera. «Debo tener un ángel de la guarda para que esto haya sucedido justo aquí y no en medio de la Patagonia en una curva a 120», pensé. Para repararlo necesitarían un día más, pues había que desmontar el sub-chasis y el depósito, así que reservé un AirBnB barato para pasar la noche.

Fui a dar a una casa de una familia medio despistada. Mi habitación estaba íntegramente decorada de productos de Disney de color rosa. La niña tenía unos 7 años y, en cuestión de segundos, me granjeé su odio ad eternum por estar ocupando su santuario, hablándome con una superioridad ofensiva sobre por qué el Disneyland de Orlando era mejor que el de París, como esperando que yo defendiera a ultranza el europeo. Y por fin descubrí el origen de los despistes: hablando con la dueña por teléfono para encontrar la llave del agua caliente, descubrí en la cocina un espacio rectangular del que salía una intensa luz naranja. Colgué el móvil, me acerqué con curiosidad, despegué un poco el velcro y ante mis ojos surgió un gran interior de marihuana, con sus tubos de extracción para el olor y todo el tinglado armado. «Joder con los del AirBnB, estos alquilan el cuarto de la hija para pagarse los porrillos», me dije riendo para adentro.

A la tarde siguiente, fui a recoger la moto para continuar la ruta y se me escapó un grito ahogado al deslizarme el gerente una factura mortal por el maldito perno. «¿Cómo puede valer un tornillo casi 500 euros?», me preguntaba una y otra vez. «Bueno, un par de semanas de patatas cocidas en el hornillo y reajusto el presupuesto». Por suerte, dos días antes había recibido una donación a través de PayPal que sufragó la avería, aunque la rabia de no haberme asesorado mejor al comprarla iba in crescendo.

A día de hoy, Supernova se sigue apagando cuando quiere, pero lo hace sin malicia ni mala fe. Hay que entenderla: tiene 17 años… y mucha personalidad.

30 diciembre, 2017

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