LOS HÉROES DEL CAMINO

· APARECEN CUANDO MENOS TE LO ESPERAS ·

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Viajar en moto implica hacer amigos a mansalva. Es difícil explicar la gratitud que uno siente cuando alguien que no te conoce, cree en ti y en tu proyecto desinteresadamente, regalándote sus horas y su tiempo sin pedir nada a cambio.

A menudo pienso si acerté o me equivoqué eligiendo una moto de dudosa procedencia con 76.000 km, 18 años y unas cuantas palizas en el lomo. Al principio, cuando surgían los problemas me cabreaba, maldecía en todas direcciones y me entraba una poco decorosa pataleta que intentaba paliar comprándome el mejor queso de la peor gasolinera. Ahora, parado en Salvador de Bahía con una avería en el motor que provoca que se me bajen las marchas ellas solitas, simplemente me sonrío con picardía mientras pienso «¡Bien, bien! Otra historia que contar». Psicológicamente, creo que he avanzado.

Tantas horas hay para pensar dentro y fuera del casco que resulta inevitable que uno haga balance y, sorprendentemente, el resultado es más que positivo. ¿Por qué? Primero porque inspira a otros viaje-soñadores porque se dan cuenta de que no se necesita la mejor moto del mercado full-equipada para emprender una gran aventura. LO ÚNICO REALMENTE NECESARIO ES QUERER IRSE. Solo hay que querer, y cuando quieres de verdad, ¡pues te vas! En lo que sea: en moto, coche, bici, andando o en burro. Y segundo porque sin ciertas averías y sin ciertos imprevistos, no se viven historias que te marcan y tampoco habría conocido a personas excelentes que me dejaron grabados en el corazón gestos de generosidad y solidaridad de primera categoría.

Ya me pasó en España antes de salir, cuando después de hacer un curso de iniciación off-road de Touratech y O2Riders rompí el latiguillo del freno delantero. Era domingo, estaba en Cuenca y tenía que volver a Madrid. Me dieron el teléfono de un chico llamado Faustino y me dijo que fuera a su taller, FS Racing. Allí, se dio el primer milagro: ni una peseta por ser aventurero. Y bueno, por no mencionar el tiempo que dedicaron en Movilnorte, que tuve a un mecánico prácticamente dedicado en exclusiva a Supernova durante más de una semana. Sin una moto tan rota, dudo mucho que a día de hoy tuviera la buena relación que tengo con Montxo y Goyo, a los que incordio mensualmente pidiendo piezas de recambio. Tampoco habría flipado en colores cuando al llegar a Itaúnas (Brasil) rompí el cable de embrague y cinco hombres de la plaza me lo sustituyeron por uno de bici y, ¡ah! Tampoco me habría hecho tan amíguete de Gabriel y su simpática abuelita, quienes me están dando cobijo ahora mismo en Salvador.

En la carretera hacia El Chaltén divisé a un tipo haciendo dedo en la carretera. Me acerqué y un acentazo andaluz delató a este personaje de Lucena al que propuse que, si le echaba huevos, llevarle hasta el pueblo conmigo en la moto. “¡¡No me creo que esté pasando esto!!”, decía una y otra vez llevándose las manos a la cabeza. “Killo, ¡¡no se detiene ningún coche y me va a llevar una moto!! Qué locura, qué locura”. Pues sí, supongo que hay que estar zumbado para levantar a alguien con un mochilón cuando tu equipaje no es precisamente liviano de por sí, pero la solidaridad de Supernova no conoce límites…. Del sobrepeso, la pata de cabra se me partió en dos al día siguiente. De nuevo, era día no laborable pero yo tenía que seguir en ruta. Aunque el pueblito argentino apenas tiene 3000 habitantes, encontré a un guía de montaña que soldaba de vez en cuando y me dedicó toda la mañana de su único día de descanso sin aceptar nada a cambio. La pata no quedó demasiado bien pero su karma se purificó hasta límites insospechados.

Tanto en Santiago de Chile como en Buenos Aires, una empresa llamada Motouring no solo me regaló el service de la moto sino que me soldaron la pata de nuevo, me cambiaron un neumático TKC 80 de Continental, me arreglaron el caliper flotante del freno trasero y me hicieron varias obras de artesanía a cargo de la caridad del camino. ¡Y es que no solo no me cobraban sino que hasta me invitaban a comer!

En esta primera etapa de mi vuelta al mundo me he encontrado con amigos de todo tipo: los que te invitan a gasolina, los que te pintan la moto, los que te la arreglan, los que te recogen el segundo casco en medio de la carretera y te persiguen media hora para devolvértelo, los que te reconocen en la aduana y te llevan a su casa haciéndote sentir como en la tuya, los que te pagan el peaje, los que te solucionan un fallo de código en la web, los que te dan alojamiento, comida, apoyo moral o simplemente un buen rato en una estación de servicio… Para mí, estos son los verdaderos héroes del camino.

13 septiembre, 2018

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    Hay muchos caminos más por recorrer.No pares. Asfalto tierra puentes rios lagos playas montañas bosques llanuras sol lluvia….y gente gente diferente culturas costumbres lenguas ….deseo estén en tu camino te acompañen ayuden tienda la mano en techo comida agua lo que se requiera en su momento …No pares. Abrazo y cuídate

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    Que decirte Agustín, que el viaje te de vida y la vida te de viajes. Que en esos viajes ames, disfrutes y aprendas que nada es permanente y que todo está en constante movimiento, incluso aunque nosotros no nos movamos. Disfrutar los pequeños momentos es nadar en la abundancia. Ser rico y afortunado no tiene nada que ver con el dinero. Abrazo grande.

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