MADAGASCAR

· NATURALEZA EN ESTADO PURO ·

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Aterricé en Antananarivo exhausto después de 25 horas de vuelos combinados con una fuerte sensación de hormigueo en el estómago, claro preludio de aventura. Al bajar del avión, un fresco olor a tormenta recién descargada invadió mis fosas nasales, cerré los ojos y me susurré «estás en Madagascar, has llegado».

¿Por qué Madagascar? Porque es isla. ¿Por qué isla? Porque a las islas es más difícil ir en moto (y ya tenía en mente el proyecto Soy Tribu). ¿En qué mes? Diciembre. ¿Por alguna razón? Porque los vuelos son más baratos. ¿Y eso? Porque, pobre ignorante, no sabía que era época de monzón y que con tanta lluvia no va casi nadie. Olé yo.

Invadidos por una humedad casi tangible y mosquitos zumbando las orejas, salí del aeropuerto y conocí a Lou, una alemana muy risueña, antigua compañera de piso de Pablo García-Inés, amigo poeta de Madrid. Con su taxista de confianza fuimos atravesando la capital de madrugada hasta su casa. Lo agradecí mucho porque la mayoría de los taxistas que peleaban en la puerta por llevar turistas ni siquiera tenían identificación de serlo y se me pasó por la cabeza la idea de que tal vez en lugar de llevarte a tu destino te condujeran a su zanja de descuartizamiento favorita.

Las calles estaban desiertas y envueltas en ese halo de desidia que suele encontrarse en algunas metrópolis africanas por la noche, como si estuvieran tristes por no tener quien las pasee. Los faros del coche-trasto iba iluminando esquinas remordidas y, de vez en cuando, brillaban los ojos de algún perro asustado.

Al día siguiente, conocí a Rivo y su primo Uit, quienes serían mi guía y conductor durante las siguientes semanas. Para encontrarles mandé a través de CouchSurfing 30 mensajes a desconocidos preguntando si sabían de alguien de confianza, simpático, que hablara inglés y, de ser posible, tuviera sensibilidad artística. Una de esas personas me pasó su contacto, le tanteé et voilà! Trato cerrado. Aparte de guía, era fotógrafo, tocaba la guitarra y le flipaba el fútbol español. Tengo una flor en el culo.

Dos días después comenzamos el itinerario que había preparado durante el vuelo. Tuve unas semanas atareadas y no me había dado tiempo buscar a dónde quería ir, por lo que al final elegí los sitios por instinto, mi brújula favorita.

Madagascar es naturaleza pura sin cortar.

Es difícil describir la sensación de andar por la naturaleza más salvaje; tan abrupta, tan verdadera y tan genuina, donde una mera gota de agua podría hacer brotar un bosque entero. En el Parque Nacional de Ranomafana le pedí a Rivo un rato para estar solo y meditar en medio de la montaña.

Estaba teniendo un momento precioso con el lugar hasta que me di cuenta de que decenas de bichitos hambrientos se aproximaban hacia mí desde la tierra, las hojas y las ramas al mismo tiempo que contemplaba con estupefacción que unas sanguijuelas de considerable tamaño estaban pegándose un festín en el hueco entre mi calcetín y el pantalón.

Comprobé en mis carnes que en la selva o comes o te comen.

Tras dos días paralizado por un cóctel de diarrea y Malarone, seguimos avanzando dirección Fianarantsoa. Era el día del Madrid-Barça y, dado que Rivo era forofo del fútbol, propuso ir a casa de un amigo que tenía televisión por satélite. El anfitrión era tocayo suyo, además de creador y director retirado de la Reserva Natural de Anja, un sitio mágico lleno de lémures. La situación era grotesca: cuando llegamos ya estaba borracho, pero es que al terminar el partido el hombre era un despojo humano. Los primeros alaridos expresando lo feliz que estaba por tener un español en su casa viendo El Clásico los recibí con risa y humildad. Los 348 siguientes me resultaron algo pesados, los cuales intercalaba -excuse my French- con otros gritos de lo mal que yo pronunciaba su nombre. En el vídeo del viaje incluí un trocito de este episodio y, justo cuando lo publiqué, Rivo me escribió diciéndome que acababa de fallecer.

Uno de mis momentos preferidos en el viaje fue cuando visitamos una remota aldea de poco más de 100 habitantes. Tras cuatro horas de conducción desde Ambositra rumbo oeste, llegamos por un camino de tierra a un pueblecito y de ahí caminamos dos horas más campo a través.

Al llegar, me sentí como un explorador del siglo XIX, inmensamente afortunado de ser uno de los pocos occidentales en pisar ese hermoso rinconcito del planeta. Y es que durante todo el viaje me dominó la horrible sensación de sentirme turista. Todos los parques naturales te exigen contratar a una persona que te guíe en el camino, además de estar todo cada vez más preparado para las necesidades medias del occidental y, maldición, yo prefiero vivir lo local, lo puro, sin maquillajes ni remilgos.

Los niños salían despavoridos cuando ponía mis ojos sobre ellos, como si mi mirada fuera una escoba que los esparciera entre las callejuelas de la aldea. A hurtadillas, espiaban cada uno de mis movimientos guardando siempre una distancia prudencial. Me pareció muy divertido ese miedo curioso e irracional que brotaba entre risitas de picardía e inocencia.

Rivo me condujo a la casa del patriarca de la tribu, un viejito con rostro de haber vivido, en el sentido más literal de la expresión. El jefe manejaba todos los recursos para asegurarse de que no le faltara nada a nadie. Con una humildad apabullante, me contó cómo funcionaban, quién se encargaba de qué y el profuso honor que les suponía mi visita. Acto seguido, extendió la mano para que contribuyera a las arcas de la aldea. «Ay, incluso aquí el billete manda», pensé.

Entonces, una linda muchachita se apoyó en el marco de la ventana y pude hacer la mejor foto del viaje, la más humana y la más sensible, como si su mirada perdida en el vacío expresara una madurez insólita para alguien de su edad. Esta foto ha terminado siendo una de las seleccionadas en la exposición temporal de Casa de América, la cual se puede visitar hasta el 4 de noviembre de 2017.

Nunca olvidaré los paisajes desde el coche pasando por mi retina ni ese brillo único del sol sobre el agua de los campos de arroz. Tampoco la cara de los vendedores de fruta ambulantes ni la de los niños pediendo gominolas y chocolate. Y es que no sé si es la montaña o esa nube pasajera, el latido de la isla o el mío cuando la pienso. Lo que sí sé es que me gusta la vida y aquí, en Madagascar, hay mucha.

13 septiembre, 2017
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