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Partí de Santiago con el corazón golpeando fuerte en mi pecho. Apenas llevaba un minuto conduciendo cuando un motorista chileno se me paró al lado y dándome la mano dijo:
–¡Enhorabuena! De verdad, enhorabuena.
–Gracias, gracias –contesté quitándole importancia, pensando que en realidad aún no había hecho absolutamente nada.

Al rato, durante la espera de un semáforo en rojo, un conductor desde la ventanilla de su vehículo me inspeccionaba de arriba abajo con media sonrisa en el labio, hasta que no puso resistirse más y espetó:
–¿A la vida?
–¡A la vida! –respondí con firmeza.

Tras derramar gasolina por todos lados en la estación de servicio, me inmiscuí en el denso tráfico de la hora punta santiaguina rumbo al Cajón del Maipo, un conjunto de cerros ubicado en el corazón de los Andes. Durante el camino, divisé varios niños que detrás del cristal de sus autos me miraban curiosos e intrépidos, como quien ve a un astronauta cabalgando un pájaro metálico cargado hasta los topes.

Notaba cómo, a medida que abandonaba el nido provisional que me había formado en la capital durante el último mes, se me grababa a fuego la emoción de las primeras curvas siendo consciente de que ahí, justo en ese momento, estaba comenzando la aventura.

Llegué al Cajón con una puesta de sol que pacientemente teñía de una suave luz púrpura los cerros más altos. Era la primera noche y tenía claro que quería acampar al aire libre, así que cuando apenas quedaban unos rayos, elegí un trocito de tierra en medio de la nada y, prácticamente a oscuras, instalé la tienda de campaña.

Tenía hambre, así que saqué el hornillo para hacerme unas zanahorias con cebolla y merquén. Era la primera vez que usaba uno en mi vida por lo que, tras media hora estudiando las instrucciones, seguía sin fiarme de mi astucia, así que me puse el casco para el momento de prender la mecha. Bajé la visera, encendí el fósforo y me imaginé lo ridículo que se me debería estar viendo desde fuera. Ante mis ojos, como por arte de magia, se creó una llamarada que creció como una pelota. “Guau, esta es una de las mejores cosas que ha inventado la especie humana”, me dije.

Tras haber dormido bajo un impresionante manto de estrellas sintiéndome la persona más afortunada del mundo, me desperté temprano con el ruido de una retroexcavadora. Cuando llegué estaba tan oscuro que no me di cuenta de que había acampado al lado de la construcción de una hidroeléctrica.

Me puse en marcha hacia Baños Morales y no llevaba ni tres kilómetros en el camino de tierra cuando, tras los primeros baches, me percaté de que mi mochila se había soltado y colgaba tapando el tubo de escape izquierdo. Me paré y, al poner la pata de cabra, Supernova se volcó sin pensárselo dos veces, como si se estuviera quejando por haberla cargado tanto y tan mal.

“Mierda, debería haberle preguntado a Montxo o Pere cómo atar bien el equipaje”, me fustigaba para adentro una y otra vez mientras luchaba con cuerdas y cinchas bajo un sol implacable que me abrasaba la cocorota. “¿A quién se le ocurre raparse al cero el día antes de ir Los Andes?”, maldecía, mientras recordaba que la última vez fue en el verano del Rajastán y la penúltima en Sifi Ifni durante el duro agosto marroquí. “Pero sobretodo, ¿a quién se le ocurre meterse en un periplo de 4 años habiendo viajado en moto solo tres veces?”. En fin, supongo que nunca me regí por las leyes de la lógica.

Me propuse ir a Baños Colina, unas termas volcánicas a las que se accede a través de una bonita travesía off-road. A pesar de que era mi tercera experiencia en pista, la confianza que me dio el curso de iniciación de O2Riders y Touratech sumado a la temeraria valentía de ser joven y la absurda creencia de que uno puede con todo, hicieron que me desenvolviera con soltura y disfrutara como un enano. “¿Cómo he podido estar tanto tiempo perdiéndome esto? ¡Es divertidísimo!”, gritaba exultante dentro del casco.

Me sentía profundamente orgulloso, como quien acaba de completar una hazaña prodigiosa digna de todo tipo de alharacas. Me relajé con un rico baño entre montañas y me encaminé hacia el Embalse del Yeso, un enorme lago azul celeste rodeado de tierra yerma. El sendero se había, literalmente, esculpido en una vertiginosa pendiente que nacía en el fondo del embalse y subía hasta el pico de la montaña. Decidí bajar a la parte seca del embalse y de nuevo más emociones asaltaron mi cuerpo conduciendo por primera vez sobre arena fina. Con tanto equipaje y tan poca experiencia, a punto estuve unas cuantas veces de caerme pero al final siempre terminaba salvando.

Se hacía tarde, así que decidí volver. Volví al asfalto y mi corazón rebosaba felicidad. Estaba loco de contento: sentía que aquellos tres días de aventura habían comenzando por todo lo alto y que estaba preparado para lo que viniera. En medio del éxtasis de mi gozo, divisé a lo lejos un par de coches varados en el arcén con los warnings puestos. Bajé la velocidad, pasé por la izquierda y vi dos cuerpos tirados en el suelo. No entendía bien lo que estaba pasando, hasta que encontré una moto reventada unos metros más adelante y de repente mis ojos, mi cerebro y mis entrañas quisieron comprender: me acababa de encontrar con un fatal accidente.

Me di la vuelta, pero estaba tan nervioso que me caí y rompí un par de cosas. Me levanté rápidamente y viví uno de los momentos más impactantes de mi vida. En el suelo había dos chicos de mi edad abrasados por todos lados, con la ropa rasgada y en estado de shock. El único que podía hablar lo hacía entrecortadamente, interrumpiendo escasas palabras con intensos gritos de dolor al más mínimo movimiento del pecho, pues se había hecho polvo las costillas. Tenía los ojos muy, muy abiertos y nos miraba a todos con la mayor cara de susto que he contemplado jamás. Intenté llamar a una ambulancia pero ni yo ni nadie tenía cobertura, así que un coche se fue a toda prisa a un lugar donde la hubiera. Abrí gasas de mi pequeño botiquín y le pregunté cómo se habían caído. A duras penas, me dijo que se les reventó la rueda de atrás yendo a 70 km/h cuesta abajo. Inspeccioné el neumático y tenía clavado un trozo de alambre gordo que no les debió dejar mucho margen de maniobra.
–Joder, qué puta mala suerte –me repetía una y otra vez hacia adentro.

Iban en pantalón corto, en camiseta, cholas y sin guantes. Al chico que podía hablar lo habían tapado con una mantita de los 101 Dálmatas y nos dijo que a su compañero se le voló el casco y que, por favor, botáramos unas cervezas que llevaban en la mochila. No especificó si lo llevaba sin atar, pero la realidad es que estaba muy grave, sangraba por el oído derecho, tenía un fuerte traumatismo en la frente y perdía la consciencia cada cinco minutos. Yo apenas podía sostener la mirada porque, de alguna forma, me estaba viendo a mí mismo ahí tirado, agonizando entre la vida y la muerte, lejos de casa y rodeado de extraños. Procuré recomponerme y mostrarme tranquilo para no contribuir a la desgracia. ¡Pero qué desgracia! No les conocía de nada pero ver a un motorista accidentado duele, puedes empatizar con lo que están sintiendo porque todos nos hemos caído alguna vez y entiendes lo que implica, máxime cuando son igual de jóvenes que tú, en la misma ruta que tú, un cuarto de hora antes que tú.

No podía evitar pensar, quizás egoístamente en esos instantes, que habría pasado si el trozo de alambre lo hubiera pillado yo. Salvo destrozos en la moto, probablemente no demasiado por el equipo de protecciones que me dieron BMW y Movilnorte, pero mi cabeza comenzó a acribillarme con pensamientos de lo más pesimistas: ¿y si el clavo estuviera en una curva con barranco? ¿Y si nadie pasara por allí? ¿Y si no llegara a tiempo al hospital? ¿Y si un quitamiedos me rebanara las extremidades? ¿Y si…? Los miedos.

Abandoné el lugar para ir a avisar por otro lado a los carabineros. Tardé media hora en llegar, pero por suerte ya estaban avisados y al rato me crucé con la ambulancia. Calculé que les atenderían hora y media después de que sucediera el accidente. Ya era de noche y me dirigí a casa de Juan y su pareja, un ingeniero amigo de un amigo de Madrid, rogando al cielo con todas mis fuerzas que aquellos chicos no tuvieran un desenlace aún más trágico. Trataba de no martirizarme, pero al fin y al cabo acababa de comenzar un viaje en el que las probabilidades de que me sucediera algo similar eran elevadas y presenciar una calamidad así a tu tercer día te hace plantearte lo que estás haciendo.

Mis miedos se habían disparado frenéticamente pero, de manera irónica, cada kilómetro que recorría a oscuras por el Camino del Toyo me iba tranquilizando. Tenía que calmarme y pensar con cordura. Esto no es solo parte de montar en moto sino de la vida misma. Hagamos lo que hagamos, vivimos rodeados de riesgos, en todos lados a todas horas. Lo que no debemos permitir es que el miedo a la materialización del riesgo nos acobarde e impida hacer aquello que nos produce felicidad porque de lo contrario, viviríamos una vida gris y apagada. El que hace surf corre el riesgo de ahogarse; el electricista, de electrocutarse; el que toma un avión, un tren, un coche, una moto, una bici… en fin, ya sabes cómo va la película: donde está el cuerpo está el peligro. No podía dejar que esa experiencia nublara mi sueño, pero debía aprovechar el recordatorio de que hay que ser prudente y minimizar los riesgos lo máximo posible.

Meditando todo esto, recordé una vez que con 17 años volviendo de La Morolla, un sitio típico cerca de mi pueblo al que se va en romería, volvía con mi amigo Roberto en mi vieja scooter trucada. Llevaba la visera abierta y, de repente, se me metió una abeja en el casco y comenzó a picotearme la frente, por lo que solté el manillar, con la suerte de que Robe lo cogió desde atrás y pudo frenar. Pero por lo demás, éramos los mismos inconscientes que me acababa de encontrar tirados en el arcén.

Desde que sucedió el 23 de diciembre, he buscado varias veces en Internet la noticia de este par de amigos que volvían del Embalse del Yeso, sin haber encontrado, por suerte, nada. Os deseo de todo corazón que ojalá, allá donde estéis, estéis bien.

22 diciembre, 2017
19 enero, 2018

116 Comments

  1. Responder

    Jose Manuel

    30 diciembre, 2017

    Llevo un par de días siguiendo tu aventura y la verdad es que comienzo a engancharme. Bravo por lo que estás haciendo. Un saludo desde Cádiz

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    Juan Fernando

    4 enero, 2018

    Animo y a por ellos. un saludo desde Granada.

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    Rafael

    4 enero, 2018

    No entiendo como sin experiencia en moto te atreves con esta odisea. He pasado un buen rato leyéndote y te quiero desear lo mejor. Un abrazo dese Barcelona

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    Rafael

    4 enero, 2018

    Por cierto, la foto de la moto apoyándose en la carga y la rueda delantera sin tocar al suelo es genial. No dejes de escribir

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    Jimena Acero

    6 enero, 2018

    Interesante relato, desde hace poco sigo tu aventura, me gustan las motos y mi mejor experiencia a sido viajar por las carreteras de mi país Colombia. Un abrazo y te deseo lo mejor.

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    Juan Jesús Padilla Torres

    9 enero, 2018

    De casualidad encontré tus vídeos en youtube y me fascina tu historia, quiero darte todo mi apoyo desde Madrid, y por favor para lo que necesites contacta conmigo.
    Hace 4 años me compre una harley davidson iron 883 ( mi primera moto «grande» ) y siempre he soñado con hacer algo como lo que tu estas haciendo…. Por eso deseo que tu viaje se lleve a cabo sin ningún problema serio y que de él te lleves una experiencia única, y puedas transmitirnosla. Te dejo mi email para lo que necesites, ya que por mi trabajo, conozco a mucha gente en todo el territorio español, y no dudaría en ayudarte en lo que precises. jj_ventu@hotmail.com . Gracias por hacernos volar!

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    Gerardo Soto

    16 enero, 2018

    Enfrentar los miedos y superarlos para seguir rodando es parte de la vida, es lo que nos hace crecer y aprender. Que duro bautizo te dio la ruta al tener que presenciar la lucha por la vida de aquellos dos hermanos motociclistas luego de su accidente. Sigue adelante, rueda despacio para que llegues lejos. Te espero en Colombia. Un abrazo de tu amigo El Motonauta. Buenas Rutas!

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    18 enero, 2018

    Te saludo desde Uruguay!! Me encantó tu relato, te sigo en Youtube y ahora por el sitio web, a seguir rodando, el camino por si solo escribe tu historia, felicitaciones y fuerza

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    24 enero, 2018

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