MARAVILLAS DE LA CARRETERA AUSTRAL

· GOZAR CHILE EN MOTO ·

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Recorrer la Carretera Austral en moto ha sido, sin duda, una de las experiencias más mágicas de mi vida. Hastiado del viento de la Ruta 40 y con el motor quejándose por la gasolina adulterada de Bajo Caracoles, alcancé Los Antiguos y crucé a Chile Chico, una de las fronteras que separan Chile de Argentina. Y es que eso es lo que hacen las fronteras: separar. Es impresionante cómo una línea imaginaria trazada por X razones históricas cambia la realidad de un lado a otro, pero más increíble es cómo en diversas partes del mundo hay quien se empeña en levantar más cuando, en mi opinión, deberíamos tender hacia lo contrario. Lejos de cualquier sub-texto patriótico, el mensaje es que me gusta soñar con el día en que las fronteras pierdan significado y razón de ser.

En fin, no negaré que no veía el momento de huir del viento, de los paisajes monótonos y secos y de esa soledad patagónica que te pone a prueba a cada metro, especialmente en la primera etapa de una vuelta al mundo en moto de alguien que apenas sabía lo que es viajar así. Por eso, tras 6.000 kilómetros bajo las inclemencias del camino y los estragos en mi cuello de huracanadas rachas, de repente me percaté de que se me había endurecido el carácter. Conservaba el humor pero había algo distinto en mi mirada y en la forma de interactuar con quien me cruzaba, como si tras haber bailado con la Fea cara a cara en dos o tres ocasiones un halo de consciencia hubiera descendido desde otro plano a mi ser haciéndome saber que al menor descuido podría tener un fatal desenlace. Y eso, cómo no, te endurece.

La cara amable de la moneda es que a día de hoy soy tan consciente de que existe la posibilidad de que la tragedia se materialice que eso hace que disfrute mucho más de lo que hago y me dé palmaditas en la espalda por haberme encauzado en lo que amo: hacer fotografía y vídeos de viaje en una aventura casi permanente donde cada día es distinto al anterior. ¡A tomar por culo la rutina! Siempre supe que eso no era para mí.

En medio de estas cavilaciones comencé a teorizar sobre por qué quizás la personalidad tosca sea frecuente en los moteros y por qué hay gente que se engancha a esto. Y es que viajar en moto es diferente a cualquier otra forma de viaje que he probado antes. Se vive una emoción y una libertad sin igual y yo, en la Carretera Austral, me volví adicto para siempre.

Crucé el lago General Carrera y tras recibir la bendición de Cerro Castillo, empezó la diversión: me esperaban un sinfín de curvas y paisajes que, por mucho que me esfuerce en describirlos, siempre sería insuficiente. Un paraíso terrenal, la frondosidad representada, el súmmum de lo fértil, el aire puro que de tu nariz refresca tus pulmones, tus ojos y tu forma de ver la vida. Reposté en Coyhaique y viví, hasta ahora, mi tramo favorito del viaje: kilómetros y kilómetros de tierra firme que se abrían paso entre majestuosas montañas como una culebrilla.

Tras tontear con el dron y casi perderlo, se me hizo tarde y comenzó a oscurecer. Estaba tan embobado con la paleta de colores que me rodeaba que apenas podía articular palabra y me dolía la mandíbula de sonreír. Esto era de verdad. Sentía que la Pachamama en todo su esplendor me daba la bienvenida a su más íntimo regazo y que no importaba si conducía sin luz porque ella -o mis ángeles de la guarda- me susurraban «venga, dale caña, que te estamos cuidando». Con esa creencia, no dudé en darle gas a Supernova y llegué incluso a celebrar ese par de veces que casi me salgo peeeero no. La vida que se erigía ante mí era tan vasta y natural que lo último que pensaba era en documentarlo. Quería vivirlo al máximo, sin distracciones, porque esas sensaciones en ese preciso instante estaban reservadas para mí y cualquier cosa que se interpusiera no harían sino mermar la experiencia.

Anocheció por completo y reduje la velocidad tras toparme con un hoyo que puso al límite la suspensión delantera e hizo que casi me zampara el manillar. Llegué a un pueblito y me costó conciliar el sueño de la adrenalina. Pero esto no terminaba aquí. A la mañana siguiente tenía que desviarme hacia Puerto Raúl Marín Balmaceda a coger el barco que salvaba el tramo aún cortado por el aluvión en Villa Santa Lucía y estos casi 100 kilómetros de pista fueron simplemente el deleite hecho conducción. Probablemente, me confié más de la cuenta, pero sabía que ese camino no lo transita casi nadie y que podía jugármela una miaja. Llovía lo justo para humedecer la arena suelta sin crear barro e, inevitablemente, me flipé creyéndome piloto de rally. Y todos sabemos qué sucede cuando uno se flipa con la moto: que se cae. Caí, pero caí con elegancia y me levanté con mucha dignidad para seguir disfrutando, esta vez con más cuidadín.

Acampé en medio de unos árboles y llovió literalmente toda la noche. Fuera y dentro de la tienda de campaña. Menuda puta mierda de Ferrino Light Tent 2. Aquello parecía el hundimiento del Titanic. Sin apenas haber pegado ojo achicando agua para salvar los equipos tecnológicos, tomé el barco a la mañana siguiente que durante 7 horas me llevaría a Caleta Gonzalo. Navegar está bien, pero navegar con olas laterales pueden convertir el trayecto en una pesadilla. La embarcación comenzó a zarandearse de un lado a otro con tal intensidad que el comedor de pasajeros se convirtió en un pozo de vómitos incontrolados. El vaivén era tan grande que si uno miraba por la ventana veía durante cinco segundos todo mar y durante los cinco siguientes todo cielo.

Ahí conocí a tres moteros argentinos que me había cruzado dos semanas atrás y me reconocieron por el muñeco de Mortadelo que llevo atado en el bidón de gasolina (a mi narigudo compañero no se le olvida fácilmente). Al llegar a Caleta Gonzalo, hicimos juntos el resto del trayecto hasta Hornopirén atravesando una especie de selva regada con un sutil sirimiri y vestida sobriamente de neblina.

Era impresionante cómo todo el decaimiento que había sentido en la Patagonia argentina se había esfumado como por arte de magia y ahora mi corazón radiaba una felicidad infinita, no solo por sentirme más capacitado de lo que creía ni por estar saliendo ileso del primer gran reto con una moto vieja y cargada hasta los dientes… sino porque pocas veces en mi vida me había sentido tan vivo. 

Viva la aventura, carajo.

 

59 Comments

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    Darwin

    13 abril, 2018

    Precioso relato. Entusiasma, inspira e invita a salirle nuevamente a la ruta, pero está vez, sin plazo para regresar. Gracias por compartir tu experiencia y tu entusiasmo. Llegué a tu sitio por un comentario de «Charly Sinewan». Abrazo desde Maldonado, Uruguay.

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    joe

    17 abril, 2018

    Hey
    We saw you and helped you on a dirt road in the south of Chile. You were side swiped by an SUV and we stopped. Looks like you’re home safe and sound. Great pics and website.

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    Sebastian

    8 mayo, 2018

    Increible relatos muy buenos videos , la forma en la que mustras las cosas inspira a querer salir y hacer lo mismo claro que es solo para valientes no es facil tomar esa decision de dejarlo todo y mandarte pero es verdad el camino te va a dar lo que precises… hice un viaje muy paresido al tuyo en enero de 2018 desde uruguay a ushuaia exoectacular experiencia , te deseo mucha suerte y te sigo en el viaje …saludos desde mintevideo uruguay

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    Hi Joe!! Thank you for the help provided. You are the real heroes !! Invisible for almost everyone, but not for me. One day I’ll arrive in Canada, I hope we see each other there again!! Have a wonderful day,

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